Yeah I know some guys that ran them on the streets without lubing and they ended up with holes in their cases.

 

Its the friction heat that also kills it!!

I had a non O ring DRZ-2 on My lil stock 1000 and don't drive far with it and the chain was shot fast!!

Not worth the hassles IMO!!

 

I got a chain for sale like that with the swing arm to go with it

 

For the street rider run a good sealed chain x or x2 ring chain you will be good to go leave the drag chains (non o ring) for the dragstrip only bikes. Just my 2 cents

 

Hey E..................how do you tell for sure when the chain is shot? I have ran them on several bikes but I won't go more than a short ride or cruise. I still lube the mess out of it since it went dry on a ride once and I was scared it would break. I lube it every few passes on the track.

 

as long as you keep a fresh coat of lube on the chain (links and rollers) and sprockets you're good. shiny rollers and shiny sprockets is bad, that means metal is wearing on metal with no wax between them.

if the links aren't straight, that's a good indication the chain is worn. also, having to adjust the chain repeatedly to keep it from staying too loose is another and may also indicate worn sprockets as well. i saw a chain so bad that 2 links had rust between them and wouldn't let the links bend around the sprocket smoothly so it clunked noticeably when you rotated the wheel. a more precise way to check chain wear is to measure the link-to-link distance. EK has a helpful FAQ page: EK Motorcycle & ATV Chain

 

It clearly says not for highway use...for a reason....I am running one on my 1k but it is a track only bike...might not be the sexiest guy , but I do like my head...keep street riding on a non oring chain and you might end up landing on your head....just my .02:2thumbs:

 

take the chain an put it in the trsh can an walk away before it gets u hurt

 

I checked over the DR chain over the weekend. It's actually fine. Every link moves smoothly and there's no tight spots or binding.

Fact is, I'd rather have that 11,000 pound drag chain on my bike at the strip than the around 9500 pound MVZX road chain I also have hanging up. I just am not going to take the DR chain on a road trip again, lesson learned.

 

Why not compare it to an 11,100 pound zzz chain which is a sealed chain......sealed vs a non sealed chain has nothing to do with chain strength it has to do with friction. Lower friction is the only reason to run non o ring chains and thats only for short runs like dragstrip useage glad you didnt break your chain and damage your motor and or bike like i seen a few guys do.....also any chain thats been subjected to that kind of heat stress and stretching I would throw away it may appear fine but it only takes one bad side plate or roller to ruin your day or worse. best of luck be safe

 

i ride mine several time on charity rides with no issues.. drz2 chain with silkolene pro chain lube. no issues. its the silkolene man. chain wax is garbage

 

kinks and clunking real bad!!

for a street driven bike not worth it breaking and messing up your cases or worse..

What Do you get a mph or 2 at most??..Most x or O ring chains move nice when they warm up anyway IMO..

pry the rear brake pads away from the rotor,cut the dust seals on the bearings and lube the chain with PB blaster at the track and it will fly!!!!!

 

i have ran drag chains on the street for the last 3yrs and never had a problem. just lube em like every 4th or 5th time you go riding....

 

What kills me, is before o ring chains came out, these are all we had. People rode old GS's and KZ's for thousands of miles with non o-ringed chains on them. I run drag chains on my street/strip bikes. I do lube it before every ride, and I also lube it before a day at the track every time. I had a DRZ2 break on a factory link this year, and thought it trashed my cases. I was lucky and it only ruined the water pum nd covers. But since then, I pull my chain maintenance constantly.

 

I have wondered about this as well! Thanks for the post.

 

Only thing I don't like about my DRZ chain is that whenever I do street ride it, I find myself having to adjust my chain every other ride.

 

Another point is the vast majority of GS' and KZs had trouble breaking 100 wheel hp. So sheeit yeah you could probably run a bicycle chain on those things.

Nowadays, there's a touch more stress. I have learned my lesson and will save the non-o-ring for the track and getting there and back. X-ring for the road trips.

 

Another point is the vast majority of GS' and KZs had trouble breaking 100 wheel hp.

maybe in your area lmao. I dont really see the big deal with maintenance, put it on a stand, spray it with k1 or pb blaster, wipe it clean and lube the hell outta it! If you can change a set of spark plugs, then this is a no brainer. If you keep it clean every other week or 3, then just shoot some lube on it at the track before each night:2thumbs: But to each his own...

 

I see bikes all the time with non-oring chains on the track and rode on the street dry and covered in rust. When I bought my K7 it had a factory chain but the maintence was not followed quite obviously even for an oring chain. If someone was slacking with an oring chain when it comes to maintainence then a non oring chain is going to be an issue IMHO.

 

Dude, think about it, what percentage of all the sold KZ and GS' actually end up being turned into monster drag/street bikes?


That would be the percent that we care about!!!

 

Im with Hughes lol, and as said in my previous statement. In my area, the majority of those bigger cc bikes found their way to the drag strip, so I'm just speaking of what I know of. Not trying to get into a pissing match. Hell my first (built) 900 made 128whp. I thought I was a badass on that yellow Z1900 lol... I'm just saying, if someone has a bike they call their "race bike" then certain maintenance intervals come into play, such as chain maintenance. Regaurdless of o-ring or not, it doesent matter. If they dont pull maintenance on something as simple as a chain, then that says to me thats just a streetbike on the race track. It also says to me lord please dont let them build a motor, because thats where maintenance really comes into play lol. It breaks down to a personal preference, I prefer to gain in any place I can. So therfore I run non o-ring chains. I can afford the 5 mins it takes to clean and oil my chain before each track outing. Just the same as I check my tire pressure, and look over the bike in great detail. I cant afford to break, and I want the best bang for my buck. But it all boils down to how well you maintane it.:2thumbs:

 

Same here INSANEBA...tons of those old Kaws still around too...went to a show yesterday and I know there was at least 25 of em showed up...2 of them fully built bar bikes turned back into street bikes...really cool to see that many in the same spot again:2thumbs:

 

Theres one on Dayton OH cl for $950 that some guy set up an 05-06 gsxr 1k arm on. It comes with a 10 motor, and even a few extras to make a street fighter with. I've been chewing on it for another project, allthough I dont need another one of those lmao!

 

Here's a laugh for you all at my expense: I have been chasing a "high rpm misfire" for weeks and finally, it's the last day of my insurance for the season. I pull off the drag chain and look at it really closely. It rolls smooth, no tight spots and it tensioned properly. Then I move it side to side and the things got about 2" of side play per foot! Needless to say, 60 passes and a stupid choice in taking this on a road trip basically knackered the thing.

So, I chuck on my MXVX X-ring chain in the same length and take 'er out for a rip. Whaddya know, the bike revs all the way to the red line in the high gears no issue. Before it would hit about 12 and start flaring and surging, like it was slipping clutch or hitting a soft cut rev limiter (which it pretty much was on each flare).

So, in sum, I tweaked the clutch, changed the plugs twice, put a ZFi on, chased all kinds of ghosts for weeks and this shitty drag chain was the problem all along. Great diagnostic skills there, Smokey. :hysterical:

 

non oring chains are junk for the street and don't make any change to your et at the track. you will need to lube everytime you ride for more than 20miles. you only need a 10,000lb max oring chain for a worked 1000. if you have a turbo get a ek 530 zzz. i race my 04 zx10 for 2years with a 520rk best et 8.79@157 also street ridden. all motor. chain strengh 9200lbs.