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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Time for US to help out the new PST owners/riders.

As owners or riders of PST bikes we all know the cost and frustration. I struggled forever over easy to fix issues other riders could have solved in seconds. Some have hinted to the problem, some have helped fix the problem and others will not help because they have learned the hard way.

Richie will always give feedback on tire issues and was a great help with all the bikes.

Kavos helped me from killing myself by pulling the bars on launch. easy fix.... keep your elbows loose and avoid holding yourself on with the bars.

Kent will always give great input if he sees a problem. Most recently, Tuck and you will see a big mph gain (been going 198 forever and never 200).

Walter found a safety issue with my brake line to close to my front tire that I have been running for years just looking at my bike. Tied it up to avoid wearing thru the line.

Terry MacIntosch is great for getting you the chassis parts you need to go fast.

I have always had a chubby bike 790lbs, but it ran low to mid 7's. I share any info I have to get the new people started, but I am not DME, NLR or Walter Sprouts. This should not be a big secret. I am not asking to give all the secrets away, but any tips may help the new riders and owners get faster sooner and stay SAFE doing it.

All rides and riders are different. This is just stuff I hope may help with your application or at least get you on your way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I will start.
Be sure no matter how much you want the 3" ground clearance, you check front tire to lower tree clearance. If you really want it get a shorter front tire that clears the turbo and trees.

Want to go fast? Don't be greedy, work on the 330' and don't freak about going 1.29 60'. If you can leave at 1.29 turn it on from there and don't kill yourself or rider trying to improve what you may not need.
 

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Watch out where the Huskies go and don't you eat that yellow snow!!





I help a lot of people in one way or another, always been glad to help... Sometimes it helps, sometimes they don't listen, most times they do, sometimes to the point i'm not focusing on my own bike. Maybe the helper Karma will shoot Walter some $$$ sponsors for next year to try and wooop a little arse!! :pop2::beer:


-
 

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Play by the rules......may not set the world on fire right away but you sure will feel good when you go some rounds.

If someone with experience shows/tells you something give it a try. Don't have someone invest there time at the track and not put advise to good use.

Try not to have too many cooks in the kitchen.
A lot of formulas out there to get the same results... so don't let too many hands in your bike slow you down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
-cut the bumper out of your shock.

-put a tie strap around the shaft of the shock. push it to the top and check it after every pass. This will help you see how much shock you are using. If you spin it may be to tight/stiff. If you wheelie it may be bottoming out. adjust the spring tension accordingly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
if you are getting pushed over the hump on the seat under hard acceleration....scary. Easy fix is just add step tape (black sandpaper taper for steps from ace hardware) to the flat part and back part of your seat. It will keep you in place and is a night and day difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
if your bike is dancing on the big end and you can not fix the problem with your high speed shock adjustment you can add more weight to the rear. How? If you have swing arm pegs like RCC and MacIntosch, make you can stand or push your weight onto those pegs to help plant the rear tire by adding the (your) extra weight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Bike is a pig off the line. You checked for boost leaks everywhere and nothing. Check your header for cracks. They are hard to see on stainless unless they are very bad. You may want to get someone else to look also. They usually just look like dark lines, but could be the issue.

Be sure to put your puke tank lower or the same height as your case breather. Kent saw my bike (when it had a gravity return from the turbo) smoking out the timing tower. He said to check the puke tube. It was filled with oil because of a low spot, causing the oil to find another path to escape. That pass is your turbo, so be sure not to have a low spot in your puke tank line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Although many pst riders deny use of ballast, some have up to 40lbs on their bikes. Heavy wheels work great. extra 29lbs ant the furthest forward point and lowest point on the bike. if you make a ballast bar or two for your bike. Go to any tire store and ask if you can get the junk wheel weights. Cast iron pan and a coleman stove of propane torch will melt it down. cheap dollar store spoon with holes will get the metal out of the lead. cup cake pan, metal cookies pan etc. drill holes and mount in a safe place.

Push the bike until it wheelies and then add the ballast to remedy the wheelie issue. Keep checking the tie strap on the shock to make the proper adjustments.
 

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Although many pst riders deny use of ballast, some have up to 40lbs on their bikes. Heavy wheels work great. extra 29lbs ant the furthest forward point and lowest point on the bike. if you make a ballast bar or two for your bike. Go to any tire store and ask if you can get the junk wheel weights. Cast iron pan and a coleman stove of propane torch will melt it down. cheap dollar store spoon with holes will get the metal out of the lead. cup cake pan, metal cookies pan etc. drill holes and mount in a safe place.

Push the bike until it wheelies and then add the ballast to remedy the wheelie issue. Keep checking the tie strap on the shock to make the proper adjustments.
Buzard1 I don't know what happened that made you want to start this thread, but my hat goes off to you! Im not a PST guy, but new to racing (2nd year) and this is the kind of information guys like me need.
 

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I was thinking the same thing.... much respect to you for sharing these tips and tricks...
 

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I would definitely have to agree. Good info

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
gearing is different for many teams, but a good place to start is 19/48 or 49. This will get you 200 mph and still allow you to get out of the hole.

Boost off the line will also be a little different for each rider, but it seems 5-6 lbs will get you out of the hole. you can always add .5 psi over launch until you spin or see the sky. Keep an eye on your tie strap when you start adding boost so you can see the effect it is having on your chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
this seems to be the most difficult. First gear.....you need to run out first gear (turbo) to get the necessary wheel speed to avoid wheelies and get that smooth run like many of the pst bikes have. If you shift by ear or panic you will not have the needed wheel speed for second gear and will most likely wheelie.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
burnout. most do it to heat the tire. others to look cool. lol

roll back into the water, roll ahead so you are out of the water and there is no water in the path in front of you. courtesy is to look at the other rider and give each other the "knod" when you are ready. Do your burnout how you like. Some don't lean the bike. others do. Purpose is two fold. heat to the tire without just burning up the center of the tire and leaning also heats the complete surface of the tire so the outside does not pull the heat from the center and has a more even temp across the surface of the tire.

Don't turn it to gum by doing a john force. For instance MIR (like glue) does not require as long of a burnout as Byron (marginal traction). You can drive out of the burnout, but do your clutch a favor and pull the clutch lever in before the rear tire bites.

No dry hops needed.


pull up to the tree. Be sure your competition is at the tree also before pre staging. Bring your RPMs up and ready before you stage. See yellow and go have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If you break or think you hurt the bike. get the bike under control. carefully move to the side of the track. try to get out of the groove is the goal.

If you loose a motor....screw everything until you get it under control. PULL IN THE CLUTCH. DO NOT HIT THE REAR BRAKES. DO NOT HIT THE FRONT BRAKES unless necessary. Chances are if you window a motor, the front and rear tire are covered with oil. Coast to a stop. Be aware there may be a rider coming by you. If you are on a short track....look for the soft spot.
 

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This is great. Don't own a PST and never will but I can see where some of this will cross over to other class bikes. Always interested in the technical side of these bikes and the more I read the more I want to read, so keep it coming. Hopefully others will add some to this to help others learn more. Lots of things could be shared that wouldn't really give away the "edge" you PST riders have learned and earned the right to keep to yourself I'm sure. I've already learned a few things and it's just getting a good start.
 
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