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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is anyone running the same nitrous bottle for their nitrous system and their air shifter. If so, any issues with the liquid nitrous going through your air shifter setup? Regulator/Solenoid/Ram?
 

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I used it and also ran a small dry shot on a 1 pound bottle. You can use a special regulator that reads both pressures and adjusts the air shifter side. They say that nitrogen is the best for the solenoids because it is dry air which is recommended. I did have issues with a solenoid going bad, probably because of the mositure. I will be switching the air shifter to nitrogen this year and installing the big air shifter solenoid.
 

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Ran it for years, no issues at all, CO2 Regulator kept pressure at desired level for the air shifter side of things. Even after there is no nitrous in the bottle, the remaining pressure left in bottle would be enough to shift for several more race days. It uses such a small amount of pressure to shift, I would leave the bottle on the bike and air shift on the street when i wanted too all month long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I was more concerned with getting liquid in the components because I will be running the bottle upside down to pull liquid for the actual nitrous system. Sounds like it isn't an issue. I have a high pressure CO2 system on it now with a Carolina cycle regulator.
 

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Run the line from the nitrous bottle, to swingarm, to the regulator, and then to the airshifter. This way the nitrous has time to cool off before it freezes the solenoid.
 

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Run the line from the nitrous bottle, to swingarm, to the regulator, and then to the airshifter. This way the nitrous has time to cool off before it freezes the solenoid.
That means you will be putting bottle pressure to the swing arm. I definatly would not recommend that. plus you would lose so much volume from the tank in the arm every time you replaced the bottle. I have seen cheap arms bulge out or blow the tank welds with only 200 psi in them. I couldn't imagine 1000+ psi to the tank in the arm.
 

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That means you will be putting bottle pressure to the swing arm. I definatly would not recommend that. plus you would lose so much volume from the tank in the arm every time you replaced the bottle. I have seen cheap arms bulge out or blow the tank welds with only 200 psi in them. I couldn't imagine 1000+ psi to the tank in the arm.
Youre right. bottle, split line, regulator, swingarm, airshifter solenoid
 

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simplify things not to waste nitrous,,,
filling the air tank will use more nitrous than is used when making passes
and the chance to blow the thin metal of an air tank,,,,
tee off at bottle or at solenoid which is ever shortest to shift lever
mount all 3 items with brass fittings,,,,,line to low pressure regulator 1/8"coupling to solenoid 1/8" elbow to ram
all 3 items together has no waste,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
less room taken up,,,,,,,,,,,
less chance of leak
and clean installed
as far as wearing out solenoid with the minute nitrous on shift
1nce or 2wice a yr ,,,,disconnect line at regulator and squirt a little wd40 in
will keep regulator,solenoid and ram seals lubed,,,,,,
 

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.... Guys, c'mon here. You want liquid nitrous at the solenoid for the motor, and gaseous nitrous at the solenoid to shift. You aren't going to do that by playing with the siphon tube or orientation of the bottle. The idea of an expansion chamber seems about right.

Stop and think a bit.
 

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buy a bottle valve with more than one port. one for the main line with a tube to the bottom that draws liquid, one for the safety release, which uses gas pressure, and an identical port on the other side, also gas pressure, for the shift. Run that to a co2 regulator (they have preset 140lb ones that work well) and then to your valve. by the time it gets through all that its not going to have any liquid left in it.

some folks say they have never had problems doing this. i had 2 valves stop working, and they had sulfur residue in them. maybe it was my nitrous supplier. idk, but i switched to air, and it was a simpler/lighter setup anyways.
 
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