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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
bike is bone stock with 5100 miles. i just ordered the following:

soupy's lowering links
swing arm extensions 6061 billet aluminium 4-9.5 inches
speedoDRD
jardine GP1

gonna start at 7.5" and 3" lowered

after the gear change i will do a pc3,quick shift,bmc race filter, z bomb and a softer shenko tire.

im doing a 520 conversion with vortex sprockets, i dont want a very aggressive setup but i dont want to do the conversion and not feel the difference. what do you guys recommend?

Really like this site,hopefully you guys can help me out! thanks in advance!
 

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bike is bone stock with 5100 miles. i just ordered the following:

soupy's lowering links
swing arm extensions 6061 billet aluminium 4-9.5 inches
speedoDRD
jardine GP1

gonna start at 7.5" and 3" lowered

after the gear change i will do a pc3,quick shift,bmc race filter, z bomb and a softer shenko tire.

im doing a 520 conversion with vortex sprockets, i dont want a very aggressive setup but i dont want to do the conversion and not feel the difference. what do you guys recommend?

Really like this site,hopefully you guys can help me out! thanks in advance!
Looks like your headin in the right direction. gearing a bike depends on alot of factors like how much do you weight. are you going to race the 1/8 or 1/4 mile. a good start would be -1 +2 and see where you and the bike is at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Looks like your headin in the right direction. gearing a bike depends on alot of factors like how much do you weight. are you going to race the 1/8 or 1/4 mile. a good start would be -1 +2 and see where you and the bike is at.
I'm 215lbs, I'll Probly do a mixture of 1/8 and 1/4 but I don't want it to aggressive for the street
 

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Welcome over here man. PB is better then gixxer.com for drag bikes. Id go +3 in the rear and buy a -1 front. that will notice. You can also get a stock tiith front to switch in and out.



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Go one down 4 up that will be 15 front 47 rear it is a compromise because more gearing would be better for dragstrip at you weight but after -1 +4 rpm start to get high for highway riding. Also you usin extensions or a ftermarket arm? if extensions you cant lower bike 3 in the rear especially with you weight and stock shock. I say this because one the bike fairings and oil pan get to low to ground when pothole or bump is encountered. two the shock resevior WILL hit the swingarm thus buttom out so very little suspension travel after lowered 3 inches. Better have awesome tire even that may not be enough to keep from spinning at track when shock bottoms at launch. Been there done that best of luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Go one down 4 up that will be 15 front 47 rear it is a compromise because more gearing would be better for dragstrip at you weight but after -1 +4 rpm start to get high for highway riding. Also you usin extensions or a ftermarket arm? if extensions you cant lower bike 3 in the rear especially with you weight and stock shock. I say this because one the bike fairings and oil pan get to low to ground when pothole or bump is encountered. two the shock resevior WILL hit the swingarm thus buttom out so very little suspension travel after lowered 3 inches. Better have awesome tire even that may not be enough to keep from spinning at track when shock bottoms at launch. Been there done that best of luck
I see. I just installed the soupy's havint got the other parts in. I'm do for new rear tire very soon, I want to get a shenko and put a 190 tire. What tire do you recommend that will work on the street and good at the track. I have zero intensions of getting caught or driving in the rain.
 

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Id stick with a 180 shinko. No need to go to a 190 with the small 600/750 rim. And like pafundi said id go 4 up in the rear. Just depends on how much gear u can take. I run -1 +4 on my 750 and ride it 60 miles a day on the highway to and from work rain or shine!
 

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REAR TIRE 180 55 17 Michelin power one sv or shinko hook up shinko says it is not designed to last well on the street but some say it is lasting okay for them on the street i got one rode it on street a few times and didnt see any wear so far but thats only like 100 miles of street riding on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
REAR TIRE 180 55 17 Michelin power one sv or shinko hook up shinko says it is not designed to last well on the street but some say it is lasting okay for them on the street i got one rode it on street a few times and didnt see any wear so far but thats only like 100 miles of street riding on it.
Sounds good, where can I find a good deal on those tires?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Spencer cycles looks like the place to buy. Another question I had was when lowering 3inches in the back, it will throw off the geometry of the front. What do I needto purchase to lower the front of the bike or is there a write up on it that I can't seem to find?
 

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You wont be able to fix the geometry because lowering 3 inches in front is not practical to ride on street like that anyways. If your at track strap on front will lower it that. Can lower front some 06 and newer 600 750 gsxrs pain in butt to lower front much because of taper on fork tubes. Motor bearings from i think small block ford or chevy can be tweaked and used to make the clip ons hold to the smaller taper of fork leg when its lowered. Also be careful what extensions you buy some are cheap and can break /much more suseptible to breakage. yana shiki or however it spelled suck and some others known to suck too.

If your worried about steering geometry ect stretching it which hurts turn in and bike nimbleness and lowering ride height which will kill your cornering clearance may not be your thing.

For the tire i bought mine from spencer cycle great guy and bought alot of stuff from dwayne at cycle concepts he is great to do business with!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You wont be able to fix the geometry because lowering 3 inches in front is not practical to ride on street like that anyways. If your at track strap on front will lower it that. Can lower front some 06 and newer 600 750 gsxrs pain in butt to lower front much because of taper on fork tubes. Motor bearings from i think small block ford or chevy can be tweaked and used to make the clip ons hold to the smaller taper of fork leg when its lowered. Also be careful what extensions you buy some are cheap and can break /much more suseptible to breakage. yana shiki or however it spelled suck and some others known to suck too.

If your worried about steering geometry ect stretching it which hurts turn in and bike nimbleness and lowering ride height which will kill your cornering clearance may not be your thing.

I'm not to worries about the geometry but if it can be fixed easily then why not do it but obviously that's not the case. I'm just gonna go with straps for when I go to tue track.

If and when I can get it to 60 foot in the high 1.6's what's a realistic time and MPH for a basically stock 600 lowered,stretched,strapped and -1 +2 bike with 520 conversion? Gonna run tue 180 shinko
 

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I'm not to worries about the geometry but if it can be fixed easily then why not do it but obviously that's not the case. I'm just gonna go with straps for when I go to tue track.

If and when I can get it to 60 foot in the high 1.6's what's a realistic time and MPH for a basically stock 600 lowered,stretched,strapped and -1 +2 bike with 520 conversion? Gonna run tue 180 shinko
First point: If you lower the rear, you alter the geometry on the front. What this means, functionally, is that you're going to slow the steering down and make it more stable. It'll be much less good at super-quick transitions in "S" curves, for example. But because it's lowered, you can't lean it that far in the first place without scraping anyhow. When you lower the front (strapping or otherwise) you'll start getting the rake/trail numbers back to where they started, and it can be a little twitchy because you aren't used to it, that's all. That being said, putting extensions on it is going to destroy any corner-carving ability it had, so really, don't worry about it.

Point two: If you intend to street ride it, the adjustable dogbones will work really nicely for you. I would not suggest slamming it for street use, as one pothole will ruin your day. I go to the track, tweak the dogbones, set chain tension, race all day, tweak everything back, and ride home. <3 turnbuckle dogbones.

Point three: Depends, what do you weigh, what kind of air are you in, pump gas or oxygenated, what's been done to it, etc etc. Honestly, at swb and guessing at 200lbs suited, if you've never raced before you'll be happy to see 11's at all. Them lil bikes are a right pisser to launch properly. If you're assuming a 1.6 60' time, and weigh still 200#, it'd be probably appropriate to run in a 10.50 index class with it.
 

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I'm 215lbs, I'll Probly do a mixture of 1/8 and 1/4 but I don't want it to aggressive for the street
contact Corey at motomummy I have the same setup pretty much he asked me why i wanted a 14-47 ratio and quized me some and got me to go with a little tamer 15-47 for the street strip setup also go with a EK zzz chain as the tensile strength is almost 9900 lbs Corey said the chain setup would take about 200 hp with no problems with breaking or how much stretch you have. My bike is about 9 in. stretched and lowered 3 in. So motomummy would be the people to call also have the best prices on their sprockets and also go with all steel no aluminum your not going to give away that much weight with the steel parts and they wont wear as fast.:potstir:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
contact Corey at motomummy I have the same setup pretty much he asked me why i wanted a 14-47 ratio and quized me some and got me to go with a little tamer 15-47 for the street strip setup also go with a EK zzz chain as the tensile strength is almost 9900 lbs Corey said the chain setup would take about 200 hp with no problems with breaking or how much stretch you have. My bike is about 9 in. stretched and lowered 3 in. So motomummy would be the people to call also have the best prices on their sprockets and also go with all steel no aluminum your not going to give away that much weight with the steel parts and they wont wear as fast.:potstir:
That is exactly what I had went with but slot of people were saying -1 +2 was the best setup so I called and got the sprocket changed. I did order the steel rear sprocket after doing some research. Bikes are much cheaper to modify compared to ls1 cars so I don't really mind experimenting on gears if I'm not happy.

What do you guys think about the bazzaz ZFI with the AFM kit over the PC3? you guys think the quickshift is worth it? I do eventually plan to run a 20-30 shot once I can get everything sorted out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
First point: If you lower the rear, you alter the geometry on the front. What this means, functionally, is that you're going to slow the steering down and make it more stable. It'll be much less good at super-quick transitions in "S" curves, for example. But because it's lowered, you can't lean it that far in the first place without scraping anyhow. When you lower the front (strapping or otherwise) you'll start getting the rake/trail numbers back to where they started, and it can be a little twitchy because you aren't used to it, that's all. That being said, putting extensions on it is going to destroy any corner-carving ability it had, so really, don't worry about it.

Point two: If you intend to street ride it, the adjustable dogbones will work really nicely for you. I would not suggest slamming it for street use, as one pothole will ruin your day. I go to the track, tweak the dogbones, set chain tension, race all day, tweak everything back, and ride home. <3 turnbuckle dogbones.

Point three: Depends, what do you weigh, what kind of air are you in, pump gas or oxygenated, what's been done to it, etc etc. Honestly, at swb and guessing at 200lbs suited, if you've never raced before you'll be happy to see 11's at all. Them lil bikes are a right pisser to launch properly. If you're assuming a 1.6 60' time, and weigh still 200#, it'd be probably appropriate to run in a 10.50 index class with it.
That's exactly what I plan to do, have it about 2.5 inches lowered on the street. Go to the track and bring it down and inch or so and strap the front. I am 215lbs and I'm in Houston TX which is sea level. I would be happy with 10.50's with the gears,lowered,stretched and bazzaz controller.
 

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That is exactly what I had went with but slot of people were saying -1 +2 was the best setup so I called and got the sprocket changed. I did order the steel rear sprocket after doing some research. Bikes are much cheaper to modify compared to ls1 cars so I don't really mind experimenting on gears if I'm not happy.

What do you guys think about the bazzaz ZFI with the AFM kit over the PC3? you guys think the quickshift is worth it? I do eventually plan to run a 20-30 shot once I can get everything sorted out.
sounds like a hot setup for the 600's bazzazz is what i'd go with and also the nos shot also pretty much a carbon of my setup should get down into the low to mid 10's with no problem I have yet to get down the track with the new parts just been getting it together over the winter so we sould stay in touch here and post some times once the snow clears here in MI:grind::2thumbs::friends::friends::friends:
 

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Bazzaz is the way to go. I haven't rec'd my Z-AFM yet, so I just put the Bazzaz slip on map. I have a Voodoo exhaust, Iridium plugs, K&N filter and the R6 throttle mod. Just ran it on the dyno on friday and it ran 122 HP for a 600. I thought that was awesome. Will be running it on the dyno again once I put the modified header on to see if there are any gains.
 
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