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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Its an 06 lowered, 68" wheelbase, front strapped. I am 225 in shorts. I did a search and found a thread that lead to brocks site to set up the rear shock. I am pretty positive I have the sag set up correctly (about 9/16 compressed with me sitting on the bike). The local track is not very good so I followed more advice and set the compression all the way soft. The problem I am having is the rebound. It just bounces right back up pretty quickly. On the video it shows him counting a decent 4-count while the bike returns to the top position, but mine bounces up way faster. Even with the rebound set all the way soft it still just bounces up pretty quick. Am I just at my limit with a stock shock? A drag shock is not in my budget right now, so if I am at my limit what would be the best place to set my shock up? Leave the sag where it is and run comp and rebound all the way soft? Thanks for any help guys.
 

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You'd run the rebound all the way hard, not all the way soft.

But yes, that's why people pay for aftermarket or revalved shocks. Stock ones don't last long, and don't work very well on lengthened bikes, normally.
 

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Turn both the compression and rebound all the way in. It still won;t be enough with a stock shock.

Put a zip tie around the shank of the shock, trim it, and slide it all the way up. Make a pass and see where it ends up (likely embedded into the bump stop at your weight)

That's pretty much all you are going to get out of a stock spring and shock, especially at 225lbs. You could put a stiffer spring on it, but the damping still won't be enough to control it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Please forgive my lack of knowledge in still very new to this. But I thought you would want the rebound soft so it would t bounce back so quick? So I should run the rebound and compression all the way hard? (Screwed all the way in)? Again many thanks, heading to the track tonight and trying to get it dialed in the best I can
 

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The shock is a damper, used to control the motion of your rear wheel and swingarm. If you turn the screws all the way out, it will not have any damping (well, it still will have something, but not much). A drag shock has so much damping potential that you can usually turn the adjustments to the point of locking out the movement all together. The stock shock is intended for a 170-ish lb rider, stock length street bike, and really only intended to absorb small ripples in the road at speed, not intended to absorb a drag style launch.

Turning the adjustment screws all the way in is the best you are going to do. If you had an aftermarket shock, it wodul be set even harder for both compression and rebound than the stock shock can be at "full in".

You can have the stock shock re-valved as well. Trac Dynamics offers this, as well as putting a stiffer spring on it. Cost used to be about half or a little less than that of a replacement shock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok thanks again for your help, definitely understand it alot better now. Any suggestions for my lowering links? Right now I am in the middle and can get the bike considerably lower going to the bottom hole (may have to remove stock tailight). Would that hurt or help my situation?
 
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