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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
07 GSXR 1000 STREET Bike....
I didn't build this motor, or have it built, just bought the bike and the builder told me this is what's done. I did recently put a Robinson HD Transmission Shaft in it though.
Whats done to the motor,

Falicon Knife Edge Turbo Rods so 2mm destroked
JE Turbo Pistons
Kibble white Diamond Valves with Carpenter Springs
Stock Intake Exhaust Ports
Stock Head Gasket
Stock Cams
Stock Crank
No Girder
APE Head Studs
Stock Case Bolts
Stock Injectors
Bosch 044 Pump

Running Woolich Tuning, boost is manually spring controlled at 8lbs on pump gas.

I do have a wideband failsafe on it so if it runs lean, it switches to a 50/50 injector map with 30% more fuel and 6 degree of timing pulled across the entire map.

So how much boost can I turn this up to? I'd rather not have to buy a boost controller so I'm looking into ECU Editor but I have to run Gen2 Busa File. So as of right now basically how big of a spring can I throw in the gate running 93 Pump gas?

Im willing to do a water meth kit if needed. 10 lb? 12 lb? 15 lb? What's the liminting factor that people would hesitate with? No Girder? Stock Crank? No boost controller?
 

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Should have went with a cometic head gasket, on C16 / meth injection you can still probly get away with 15-20 pounds of boost with a good tuner pull some more timing than 6* to get started


Edit: just saw you have stock injectors.. dunno I think you should go back and get some injectors and do it right before cranking it up
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Doesn't matter that I can split them 50/50? The gasket might be cometic, when I was told stock it was in reference to thickness.
 

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also if your just running a spring with no boost controller you will NEVER get traction in 1st gear..

you need an AMS1000 or some sort of boost controller, bigger injectors then goto town, if you dont have any kind of intercooler you should run 50/50 meth/water for sure on pump gas your gonna melt stuff keep it 10 psi or below till you get some better fuel / electronics
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ya. I understand that, that's for sure. Hahaha. But it's a street bike only so I don't really mess around from a dig with it. Mainly cause I don't think the handclutch clutch can hold it. Am I wrong? If I didn't think I was going to blow through the clutch, I'd take it tl the dragstrip.
 

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+1 on what Zimm said already.

Where is your static compression ratio at right now? Do you know what your quench/squish numbers look like? That'll be a good starting point. I have no experience with how strong the Zuk cranks/cases/clutches are, but with a good water meth set up you can get away with some pretty entertaining boost numbers on a stock bike. I'm running a zx10 motor right now at about 14psi on 91 gas with a water/alcohol injection set up, and I'm only pulling about .18-.2 degrees of timing per psi from a stock ignition map (roughly 1 degree per 5psi). The motor has turbo pistons, crown coatings, and a tight quench, but I feel like there are several more psi in it before I have to stop running pump gas; IIRC the static CR is somewhere in the 10-10.5:1 range. I've run 8-10psi on 100% stock engines with no timing changes using water/alcohol injection and they held up... but if you let the AI tank get low it'll melt a piston pretty much instantly. Without an intercooler, AI injection should be a must. Even with a good one it does amazing things for the tuning window.

Like Zimm said, though, it's useless without a boost controller. Even lowered, with +2/-1 gearing, lightly progressing the boost, it rips the wheel off the ground around 10K rpm in 3rd gear (around 130ish mph). If you can't get the gate boost down into the mid single digits you're going to have a helluva time keeping it on the ground. :) Granted, mine is stock wheelbase... but to much arm on streetbike will just make it a spin machine. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ya it's a 70" bike. I don't know any of the engine spec numbers since it was built prior to me owning it. I'm sure the CR has to be pretty low with the shorter rods and turbo pistons. So boost control is mainly to make it ride-able?
 

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Your not really gonna get a answer because its gonna b a guess on compression and u don't wanna do that. I agree its probably low but did u verify the engine had these parts when u did the trans shaft? If I had to give u a number maybe a 10lbs spring. But if its higher on compression than thought then your gonna pop it. If u wanna turn it up I'd get the motor checked and get all the specs on paper then u can get some better answers. If it was a low comp motor like yur list I'd say 12-14 maybe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I saw the rods are right, not sure on pistons, whats best way to check pistons? Through intake valves? I guess I should have tried to get a part number off bottom of piston before putting engine back in. How important is a girdle on turbo motors?
 

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Honestly, in your situation, you'd have to cc a hole at TDC and the cc the head to get the right math for the static compression numbers.... everything else is just guessing. I know a teardown/rebuild is a PITA, but if you 'guess' wrong and throw too much boost at it you'll be doing a much more expensive teardown/rebuild anyway. If you're not willing to tear it down, just keep what you have 'cause you know it works. If you add AI injection or E85 you can add a couple PSI without issue, but if it were me I'd still like to know what's inside my motor. Just my opinion, of course.

Real boost control is about power management, yes. Even if you make the same peak boost, how you control it can manage traction and/or give you huge gains in midrange performance. For that to work you need an advanced control system... something that can control boost by gear/TPS/rpm, and you need a light wastegate spring to make it work for low gear traction situations. Though, at 70" you can probably get away with a lot of PSI in first gear compared to me at 54". :) If you run a good controller, just get a spring a couple PSI below the maximum boost level it can handle in first gear... then set the controller up to make it behave like you want in all the gears.

I know nothing about girdles on bike motors... never even heard of it on the Kawi motors.... but I've never planned on making more than 350-400hp either. Is this a suzuki specific mod?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Welllllll @#$^$&@(#^&%*%)@)!_)#&*%$&%(#(@)@#*&*$&%&%!!! I got motivated to get a part number off the pistons and this is what I found. 20150107_153229_resized.jpg 20150107_153242_resized.jpg

I guess positive side is, atleast I found it before it destroyed the whole motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well guess motor is coming a part. What should I do while I'm in there? Want to run 15 lbs reliably. Think I'm going to ditch destroked rods.
 
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