How to get times down with a SWB 750?

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How to get times down with a SWB 750?

This is a discussion about How to get times down with a SWB 750? within the Track Tips section, where you will Need advice on drag racing?; Hey guys, I'm new here and figured this would be a good place to turn to get some answers. I have a 2011 GSXR 750, it's pretty much stock besides full exhaust, flash tune, -1

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    Default How to get times down with a SWB 750?

    Hey guys, I'm new here and figured this would be a good place to turn to get some answers.

    I have a 2011 GSXR 750, it's pretty much stock besides full exhaust, flash tune, -1 front sprocket, Soupy's adjustable lowering link and a strap for the front. Suited I weigh just over 200#.

    I'd like to get low, low 10's or maybe a high 9 as it sits. I video my runs and try to learn from it. I've only taken it to the track 3 times but I'm making progress.
    The first time in June (it was completely stock), my best was a
    1.97 60'
    4.99 330'
    7.35 @ 104.3 1/8
    11.11 @ 130mph
    I noticed I wasn't slipping the clutch enough and wasn't staying in it in 1st.

    Next time was in Sept (with exhaust, tune and -1) I went a
    1.88 60'
    4.92 330'
    7.29 @ 104.26 1/8
    11.04 @ 130.89
    I improved with my clutch work a little but still kept chopping the throttle when it would come up as the rpms climbed in 1st.

    This last time was on Halloween (with the strap and lowering link) my best pass was a
    1.83 60'
    4.67 330' (I was getting better at staying in it )
    6.91 @ 109.92 (finally broke into the 6's )
    10.53 @ 134.37

    I know I have 2 big issues, one is seat time. This is my 1st bike in probably 15 years and as you can see I don't go to the track much (I may have 12-15 passes on the bike). Next is that I'm SWB, so I know I'm going to need more seat time and a bigger set of balls.

    I know I need to leave harder, more rpm, a good clutch hand, and go WOT ASAP. That will come with seat time. I'd like to go low 1.6's. I'm open for suggestions.

    Next, from 1st-2nd, I let off and clutch shift. From 2nd on I usually keep the throttle pinned and bump the clutch on the shift. This last time out I lowered my shift point from red line (14,2xx) down to around (13,500). Should I shift with or without the clutch, let off the gas on shifts? Should I change my shift point? The dyno sheets that I've seen for the '11 GSXR 750 show it making peak power at 12,500 stock. (I'd imagine I'm around that, maybe a tad higher.)

    Here's the video of a few passes from Halloween. 2011 GSXR 750 SWB 10.53@134.37mph (making progress) - YouTube

    Sorry for the book. I just figured, the more info I gave you, the better the advice would be.

    Thanks,
    Mike

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    Dunno that you're going to go 1.6's without spending a bunch of money. That's a 54.7" wheelbase. Odds are you could open the slots in the arm and go a pinch longer, but you'll be needing extensions or an arm to make big gains.

    Shiftpoints you can work out by figuring out the average torque going to the ground in each gear, you shift when the next gear is more torque than the one you've got. Version that most people can understand is shift wherever it causes the best overall MPH for the run, a little experimenting will help you figure out where that is.

    As far as how you shift, really doesn't make much difference. Go with whatever you're most comfortable with, as that's the most likely to not miss gears and will be the quickest. Eventually you can go the airshifter route, if you decide to dreagrace heavily.

    Lots of seat time, there's still bunches of gains to be made.

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    Thanks. I know a guy that's going 1.6's (but he's -1/+2). I was going to try to get it without changing the back sprocket, yeah that may be a near impossible task. I guess I need to get it on a dyno and have them run through the gears. I'll probably end up going with a stand alone quick shifter.

    I may try to hit the track next Wednesday in hopes of catching a really good DA. If nothing else, it'll give me more practice.

    Thanks again.

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    Looked like you were fighting wheelies slightly well past 60' to me, so more gear isn't going to do much good for lowing the 60' times. What's your shock set like? Might be a bit to gain there.

    Bike looked like there was truckloads of ground clearance, though it could have been the camera angle. Lower is your friend :)

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    you need too add at least +3 to the rear & a stretch to 6'' over.more seat time.set your suspension for your weight (sag,rebound & compression also air the front tire up to 50 psi).with these items addressed you will drop a 2/10 on your 60 ft = 3/10 to 4/10 in the 1/4. to include, get a air shifter with a ignition or fuel kill .better E.T.=gotta spend a little cash (air shifter,swingarm,rear sprocket,chain,kill box & a shinko rear tire).

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    It's lowered 2" in the rear. I can't go much lower because the shock is almost sitting on the link. The front was strapped at tight as I could get it. It brought the front down about 1.5", maybe a little more. I didn't drop it from the triple tree because the forks are slightly tapered. It could be done, but since I don't drag race that often it would be a pain in the ass to go up and down with it. That's why I when with the adjustable lowering link, I can easily wise it back up.

    As far as suspension, this last time I had it on the factory setting. I think next time I'll turn out the compression setting in the forks, this should allow me to strap it a little lower. I thought about adjusting the rear so the it was soft on compression and hard on rebound but wasn't sure if I should mess with it since I wasn't having s traction issues and I'm still SWB. With it strapped and lowered it doesn't come up much anymore.

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    What's a kill box? Is that like a 2 step on a car? You set a desired launch rpm, go WOT and it's holds that rpm while the clutch is engaged?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 01gt4.6 View Post
    What's a kill box? Is that like a 2 step on a car? You set a desired launch rpm, go WOT and it's holds that rpm while the clutch is engaged?
    For an air shifter...not a two step kill box kills spark or fuel for the air shifter
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    lot of factors to look at whats your weight and height?? you can follow me as i did with my lil 636 swb the fastest ive been on it was 6.20 motor and 6.00 on gas in 8th, could i duplicate that now probably not its been a while since ive really been at the track every weekend like i used to be. any way....

    2006 636
    slammed as far as i can get it
    custom pc3 tune
    custom full system exhaust using m4 gp pipe
    stretched on stock swing arm as far as it will let me (54.8")
    welded slipper basket
    took out jutter springs
    barnnet clutch spring (stiffer than stock)
    race air filter
    15-46 gearing (equal to -1 +2)
    reverse gp shifting (1up - 5down)
    lead filled front axle
    tire weights lining the inner front fender
    smaller profile tire filled to 45-50 psi on track
    slick on rear or shinko stealth
    thinner head gasket (thinnest i could go) to raise comp
    lil 30 shot of gas

    i leave at 12k and wot at 60 i do not remember my 60ft times i just remember my ending results.
    datdude likes this.
    2006 ninja 636......60", nos, tune, bolt on's
    2005 ninja zx10r..... The Rescue Bike.....68", geared, nos, bolt on's, stock motor for now
    With racing and life there are challenges with a lot to still learn and but i'm getting there....[/B]

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    Alpine, pretty cool tricks that you did. Thanks for the advice.

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    Are you wanting to stretch it eventually and do you want to crack into the motor
    THE BIRD IS THE WORD

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    Quote Originally Posted by jojos750 View Post
    Are you wanting to stretch it eventually and do you want to crack into the motor
    Not really wanting to, since I don't race it much. That and it's still pretty new, only had it 6 months. I may eventually end up doing that. Another thing is as much as my women likes me having a bike because she knows I love to ride, she doesn't like me to race in fact when we went to buy it, she asked if I planned on racing it... I told her no. Well back then, I didn't plan on racing it. That has since changed, so when she found out the first time I went to the track, she was pissed because I gave her my word. So now I go when she works a double. I can get back and get the bike cleaned up without the worry of about argument. If not for that, I'd love to stretch and spray it. I'm a nitrous junkie, ran it for many years in my mustang. She was cool with me racing the car, but when I'm on 2 wheels, she worries. No matter how much I tell her it's safe(r) at the track, she doesn't seem to care. To her, it was my word.

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    With out tapping into motor id say full exhaust or a good slip on, power commander, good air filter like a bmc, all short velocity stacks and some gear, short twist throttle also
    THE BIRD IS THE WORD

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    Jojo, thanks. I listed my mods above. I have full Yoshi exhaust, flash tune, -1 front sprocket. Stock filter though. Does a filter make much of a difference (if my stock filter is still good)? I'm now sure they make stacks for my bike.

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    Order two shorts.thru dealer better air filter better flow imo
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