Harley Davidson " bagger motors" 107" & 120"

[P.Cooper]

Looking at doing my motor . I have looked at the factory harley davidson screamin eagle 120r motor (130hp) $5800 no warranty from harley. I have also heard about the 107" cutsom motor builds
I will be riding this thing in and out of town alot so reliabilty is my 1st concern. Any ideals ?

[racer113]

evo or twin cam?

[Scott224]

TRY T-MAN PERFORMANCE.

[P.Cooper]

evo or twin cam?

Twin cam

[GreenMachine]

what year twin cam do you have? the 120 motor will end up costing you more than that b/c you have to run the screamin' eagle compensator, and the bigger throttle body and injectors. S&S makes a very dependable 106 kit, the only 107 kit i've put in was converting a 88 to a 107 with the axtell mountain motor kit. its a good kit, but its all bore, no stroke, so you have to bore the cases to do it. if you have any questions, you can pm me on here and i'll give you my number. i'm very well versed in harleys...we've been in business since 71 and work primarily on harleys. we build and balance flywheels, bore cylinders, hone rods, etc. for most of the shops around here, and even for the harley dealer. i build harley motors every week, so i know about all there is to know about them. its getting a little harder to keep up with them b/c harley is changing them pretty often lately, and i usually don't see them on my end until they are out of warranty and people want to build them. before anybody jumps on me, i will not sell you anything b/c i'm not a sponsor, i'm just here for advice.

[WC SWB]

if reliability is your main concern, i would stick with your stock motor. a little work on the stock heads with a set of cams is a fairly substantial upgrade without sacrificing reliability. of course big motors can reliable, but they just aren't worth the money in my opinion.

my harley is slow as **** too, but i've just learned to live with it. haha

[GreenMachine]

most harley motors are pretty reliable if built right...they're roller bearing cranks so you rarely have a rod failure. most twin cam problems are cam chain tensioner related. if you really beat on it, they do have a problem with the flywheels shifting in them, but if you're gonna stroke it, just weld up the crank pin in the new crank and it should never be a problem. the only way to get any power out of them is to crank up the compression, but with harley's dumbass starter setup, you will start having starter jackshaft/clutch basket ring gear problems if you go with too much compression. S&S makes some new "easy start cams" that are the best shit since sliced bread for motors with high cranking compression.

[popeye]

the 120r is a good motor, What year is your bagger? The newer ones cut the rear cylinder off in traffic to cut back on heat. Believe it or not its helps because the rear cylinder is the one that always starts leaking.

Need more specs on your bike to help

[racer113]

popeye is right! i would go with the 107 from revolution performance take .005 extra off the rear cylinder for the cooling and you'll have no issue!

[Murphy's Law]

what year twin cam do you have? the 120 motor will end up costing you more than that b/c you have to run the screamin' eagle compensator, and the bigger throttle body and injectors. S&S makes a very dependable 106 kit, the only 107 kit i've put in was converting a 88 to a 107 with the axtell mountain motor kit. its a good kit, but its all bore, no stroke, so you have to bore the cases to do it. if you have any questions, you can pm me on here and i'll give you my number. i'm very well versed in harleys...we've been in business since 71 and work primarily on harleys. we build and balance flywheels, bore cylinders, hone rods, etc. for most of the shops around here, and even for the harley dealer. i build harley motors every week, so i know about all there is to know about them. its getting a little harder to keep up with them b/c harley is changing them pretty often lately, and i usually don't see them on my end until they are out of warranty and people want to build them. before anybody jumps on me, i will not sell you anything b/c i'm not a sponsor, i'm just here for advice.

Green Machine/David knows his sh*t

[GreenMachine]

i have to disagree with going with the revolution performance for his application of riding in and out of town alot. while you do get a couple of extra cubic inches, you are going with a plated cylinder like a sport bike. if you ever hurt a cylinder, you will be stuck buying new cylinders. stock style cylinders have a sleeve that you can bore if needed. it is pretty common to have to eventually oversize the pistons in a harley...with stock cylinders or most aftermarket cylinders, you could just bore it .005 or .010 over tighten it right back up. as far as the cooling goes, most of that has to due with how lean the bikes are from the factory. if you tune them right with a pc, racetuner, etc., you rarely have overheating issues. if you're going for the absolute max cubic inches with the least amount of effort, then i would go with the revolution.

[racer113]

very good point! that is just a lil trick i use on the old bikes but with the new technology probably not needed!

[P.Cooper]

the 120r is a good motor, What year is your bagger? The newer ones cut the rear cylinder off in traffic to cut back on heat. Believe it or not its helps because the rear cylinder is the one that always starts leaking.

Need more specs on your bike to help

Popeye i have a 2010 streetglide

[compton]

Popeye i have a 2010 streetglide

96 or 103? have the factory oil cooler? what kind of pipes do you have and what kind of tuner? also when you buy a 120r you can just sell your stock motor setup to make back some coin.

with the 107 builds crank runout is the biggest issue, the cranks are sloppy. a nice 107 with good head porting, and throttle body porting will net you around 115-120 which is all i'd do on a crank that hasn't been touched. if you want to take the crank out and get it welded and true'd up then 120hp+ isn't an issue.

nice part about the 120r and other setups is you don't have to worry much about the crank. but you can build nice 107 that's very enjoyable and make 115-120 hp for around $2,300. more if you need to add an oil cooler. also i'd do the screamin' eagle clutch mods too.

[P.Cooper]

96 or 103? have the factory oil cooler? what kind of pipes do you have and what kind of tuner? also when you buy a 120r you can just sell your stock motor setup to make back some coin.

with the 107 builds crank runout is the biggest issue, the cranks are sloppy. a nice 107 with good head porting, and throttle body porting will net you around 115-120 which is all i'd do on a crank that hasn't been touched. if you want to take the crank out and get it welded and true'd up then 120hp+ isn't an issue.

nice part about the 120r and other setups is you don't have to worry much about the crank. but you can build nice 107 that's very enjoyable and make 115-120 hp for around $2,300. more if you need to add an oil cooler. also i'd do the screamin' eagle clutch mods too.

My bike and set up so far.
2010 street glide stock 96" motor ,no oil cooler,rhinehart true duel "classic" pipes, k&n breather no tuner as of yet.